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The silence was absolute and disquieting and I was eager to return to the warmth of the fire.My gaze wandered over the forest floor to an oddly positioned stone.You will occasionally spot a porpoise or a whale, but the main attractions are the sea bird colonies and the seals.

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It is the second smallest province, about twice the size (ca. It has a diversity of inlets and islands, harbors and headlands that make it a world-class sea kayaking destination with highlights that include the highlands of Cape Breton, the massive tides of the Bay of Fundy (see “Tides Without Equal: Paddling the Bay of Fundy,” SK, Aug. However, it was the Atlantic coastline that gave me my first exposure to sea paddling. The Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia extends from Yarmouth, at the entrance to the Bay of Fundy, to the eastern tip of the mainland at Canso.

It traces a highly irregular path of drowned estuaries and prominent headlands, fringed with thousands of islands.

More recently, glaciers scoured the region and carried much of the soil away.

What little there is now comes from sediment carried in rivers, and from the erosion of loose drumlins scattered along the shore.

The bedrock is predominantly graywacke (quartzite) and slate, initially deposited off an early Africa, and then thrust up against North America during continental drifting millions of years ago.

During this turbulent period, magma flooded the cracks and fissures, resulting in the granite outcrops we find at Peggy’s Cove and elsewhere.The first Europeans were fishermen who in the 1500s began to exploit the massive stocks that were to feed their societies for centuries.In 1605 the French built the first small settlement.Inset Above: Draped in the mist of late spring, the inner islands of Shoal Bay offer a sheltered paddle.THE FOG HAD JUST CREPT in and shrouded our island campsite in a thick mist as I made my way under the lichen-covered spruce in search of mushrooms for the evening meal.A harsh maritime climate has resulted in a challenged forest cover along the coast where white spruce and fir are the norm.